I know I know, where’s the “and the city” part gone?   I’ve been traveling a lot lately and want to report on the status of gluten-free in those travels.

My most recent trip was to Jackson Hole, Wyoming.  This beautiful spot is an outdoorsy person’s paradise.  In the winter, people come mostly to ski and take in the view.  In the summer there is much more: hiking, camping, mountain biking, rock climbing, white water rafting, fishing, and horseback riding.  In a place that is defined by its natural beauty and activities, you’d be correct to expect to find the natural and organic food trends to come with it.  Jackson Hole certainly does not have the variety and quantity of gluten-free food establishments that New York City does, but for a small town that is populated by mostly tourists, a gluten-free traveler is not out of luck.

Howdy Pardner! Yonder is Jackson Hole!

Staying In

I have the privilege of staying in a garage apartment that belongs to Alex’s parents when I travel to Jackson Hole, which makes eating in a very attractive food option.  There are three major grocery stores in the area, Albertson’s, Smith’s, and The Whole Grocer.  Can you guess which one is the most gluten-free friendly?  Right: The Whole Grocer.  That doesn’t mean that Albertson’s and Smith’s don’t carry gluten-free goods, just that their selections are much more limited.

The Whole Grocer is a gluten-free paradise.  They carry all their gluten-free specialty items in one aisle, labeled clearly “gluten-free” twice.  It’s not the largest gluten-free aisle I’ve seen (that award goes to Whole Foods in Austin), but it certainly has everything gluten-free you could want, from cereal, to pasta, to baking mixes.  I had actually stopped by the Whole Grocer on a mission to find gluten-free hamburger buns, which I’ve never seen in store before, but lo and behold the Whole Grocer has them in stock.  These frozen buns were nestled among the largest selection of frozen gluten-free items I’ve seen.  They had a huge variety of breads- including Rudis’-which doesn’t exist yet in the New York area, as well as waffles, muffins, and bagels.  Their frozen GF inventory spanned two freezer rows.  One more thing about the Whole Grocer: they carry freshly baked gluten-free goodies in their bakery section.  That being said, the Whole Grocer is rather expensive and carries only organic foods, so I’d recommend buying your other foodstuffs at Albertson’s or Smith’s for a better deal.

Going Out

Jackson Hole is not the small town it once was, and with millions of tourists coming every year, the restaurant/café scene has expanded and become more upscale.  Here’s a list of restaurants that will cater to your GF needs:

Pica’s

Wilson, WY

This gem of a restaurant is located in the Stagecoach, one of the oldest and most famous bars in the Jackson Hole valley.  In a bar, its décor is unpretentious and “rustic” but they serve the best Mexican in the area. They use corn tortillas for their enchiladas and tacos, which come in many varieties.  If you want a margarita to go with your taco, you just take a few steps to the left and order it at the bar.

Nora’s Fish Creek Inn

Wilson, WY

Also an area staple, Norah’s is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but is my favorite when you’re in the mood for a hearty breakfast. I usually get scrambled eggs or an omelet with a hot chocolate for those below freezing winter mornings.  If you like fish and have a large appetite, get the trout & eggs.

Rendezvous Bistro

Jackson, WY

When we stopped by the Bistro for a nice dinner Wednesday night, we didn’t make reservations thinking that it wouldn’t be that crowded on a Wednesday night after tourist season.  We were wrong.  We waited 45 minutes for a table, but enjoyed some very strong drinks at the bar in the meantime.  Rendezvous has slightly upscale prices but a casual vibe.  While they don’t have a gluten-free menu on hand, each server carries their own list of what’s GF, so you don’t have to worry about cross-contamination.

JH Organics

Jackson, WY

JH Organics is a cross between a health store, new age bookstore, and café.  Despite the strange vibe, they have the best selection of gluten-free baked goods – just get there before 3 pm when they close for the day.

Nikai Sushi

Jackson, WY

Alex and I were craving sushi one night and were happy to find that Jackson has not one but two Japanese restaurants to choose from.   Based on Yelp reviews, we went with Nikai.  I called ahead to see if they had gluten-free soy sauce and they did, so I didn’t have to bring my own.  Nikai is well decorated and has a warm and chic vibe- much unlike many of the sushi joints you find in NYC.  Because of the lack of competition, prices are relatively high for rolls, but the atmosphere, quality fish, and delicious drinks makes it worth it.

Harvest Organic Foods Bakery and Cafe

Jackson, WY

I had a gluten-free loaf from this bakery that was delicious.  Even though it was more of a corn bread, it was still awesome to have a freshly made loaf for sandwiches and toast!

Lotus Cafe

Jackson, WY

Lotus Cafe serves organic and fresh foods with veggie, vegan, and gluten-free options.  In fact, 99% of their menu is available gluten-free.  They also have a gluten-free bakery on-site.

Betty Rock Cafe

Jackson, WY

They serve lunch and light dinner fare such as salads, wraps, and sandwiches.  All the sandwiches and wraps can be prepared gluten-free with Udi’s bread and Sonoma tortillas.  They also have a list of which sauces and dressings are gluten-free.

In Jackson, even if you don’t see “gluten-free” advertised, chances are, the restaurant will be able to accommodate your needs.

As you know I spent most of last week away from Gluten Free and the City and the United States.  I was in Budapest for a big work meeting.  Budapest is a lovely city, and this past trip was my third time there.  Memories of previous trips to the city (which is really two cities Buda and Pest, joined by many bridges over the Danube River) are dominated by herding adults to various locations, puzzling over the spelling and pronunciation of Hungarian words, and enjoying hearty Hungarian food.  This past trip was sure to include the first two items, but I wasn’t so sure about the third.  This past trip was my first time in Budapest gluten-free. 

Traveling abroad gluten-free is a challenge.  Speaking the language is a serious benefit, but even then, trying to explain celiac disease and gluten in my native tongue can be difficult.  I do not speak Hungarian, and I bet that most gluten-free travelers are also not armed with that tool.  So because you will probably not be able to eloquently articulate your gluten intolerance and why it is important that your salad not be prepared in the same bowl as the one with croutons, you must arm yourself with a couple of other tools.

Knowledge of the Cuisine

Having been to Budapest before, I am familiar with the food.  It is hearty, meaty, starchy, and has all the potential to be contaminated with gluten.  Since I was at a large meeting, all our meals were buffets and I didn’t really have the option of grilling the waiter anyway.  I avoided anything that looked like it could have gluten.  Sadly, this meant I didn’t enjoy the goulash, any sauce dishes, and rarely a dessert.  I did have a mix up once though, where I thought what was actually gnocchi was rice.  I luckily asked a native Hungarian before I ate any, but it was on my plate.  I stuck to salads and simple meats.  Knowledge of the cuisine is especially important when traveling to China or Hong Kong, since pretty much every dish is seasoned with soy sauce, which is wheat based. 

Research

Since one of the joys of travel is tasting the cuisines of different cultures, you’ll probably want to sample as much of the local food as you can.  At least, I do.  In this case, do your homework and research potential gluten-free restaurants or grocery stores where they carry gluten-free items.  I’ve heard rumors that European countries are more gluten-free friendly than the US and it is possible you’ll find some great GF restaurants or reliable GF shops that you would not have found otherwise.  You can also do research on gluten-free brands worldwide.  Also, if you have your heart set on going to some great restaurant that isn’t gluten-free, contact the establishment.  Most likely, someone there speaks some English and can help you out.  It is better to prepare the restaurant for your arrival then to spring your dietary restrictions on them (especially true for set menus).

Know the Terms

Learn how to say gluten-free in whatever language is spoken where you are going.  If that isn’t a popular phrase or saying, learn how to say wheat, barley, spelt, rye, and the most common gluten-containing items like flour, pasta, and bread.  You can use these phrases in your email or phone call to the restaurant.  A great service that does this for you is Select Wisely.  They provide information cards that explain your allergy/intolerance in many different languages.  This should ensure that you can dine free of gluten.

Be Prepared

Worst case scenario is that that the cuisine is gluten abundant and your research has failed to provide an alternative.  This is super unlikely.  Most likely, you’ll be sick of eating salad all day and not enjoying dessert with your travel companions.  Because this is likely to happen unless the cuisine is amazingly gluten-free friendly, you should have some snacks on hand to satiate your cravings.  This is especially important on long plane rides.  I request gluten-free meals, but sometimes they are really pathetic and sometimes gross.  I bring Larabars and trail mix on my plane rides, and usually this does the trick.   

Traveling to Budapest gluten-free was actually quite successful overall.  Despite eating only yogurt, fruit, plain meats and salad, that was really all I craved since it was quite hot and humid there.  There were some gluten-free victories: ice cream and chocolate mousse for dessert instead of pastries; and mishaps: a waiter not understanding English at all and ending up with a wrong but thankfully gluten-free order (the same waiter misunderstood my order or lemonade and instead I got Grand Marnier!).   

I’m off to Austria in a week for a much needed vacation with the boyfriend and his family (read: mom, sisters, and sisters’ significant others) and I’ve just requested my gluten-free meal on Air Berlin.  I’ll let you know how it goes! 

Other Gluten-Free Travel Sites

Gluten-Free Travel Blog 

10 Tips for Traveling-Gluten-Free

Gluten-Free Guidebook 

Traveling Gluten-Free in France

Gluten-Free Travel Examiner

Gluten-Free Travel, by Graf!

GF Travel

A Gluten-Free Guide to London

Triumph Dining

CeliacChicks: Gluten-Free Italy